Call in the calorie police. Everything at the new Seasons 52 at South Coast Plaza is 475 calories or less, but it sure doesn’t taste like any skimping is going on.
The Florida-based chain (this is its first West Coast location and its 12th restaurant) uses no butter, cream or fryers. Instead, the food is roasted or wood-fire grilled, and flavors are enhanced with spices, vinegars, stocks and olive oil. The menu will change, depending on what’s in season.
The first time I arrived was on a weeknight and the place was packed. Seasons 52 has taken over The Clubhouse’s old space, but it looks totally different: “polished casual,” in their words, with soft lighting for dinner and, the night I was there, a piano player. Our waitress was attentive and friendly, with loads of suggestions.
I ordered a glass of Mirassou ($7.50) Pinot Noir (you can get 60 of the 100 selections on Seasons’ impressive wine list by the glass) and the Tiger Shrimp Penne ($17.95) with lemon sauce. I seriously had to remind myself I was eating low-cal. The dish was loaded with chunks of roasted carrots, grilled red peppers and cremini mushrooms that are brushed with balsamic vinegar before hitting the fire. The shrimp had a smoky grilled taste. And the sauce was light and simple, but not at all short on flavor. I later learned it’s made with chicken stock, lemon zest, tamarind soy sauce and rosemary. The chef uses arrowroot for a thickener instead of corn starch or flour.
The Spicy Chicken Chili Relleno ($9.95) was another winner. The pepper was grilled over an oak fire and then stuffed with grilled chicken, goat cheese, cottage cheese, spinach and basil. Surrounding it was one of the best pico de gallos I’ve ever tasted. The tomatoes were skinned and diced with roasted red and yellow bell peppers and then flavored with lime juice and cumin seeds that were toasted and then ground with a mortar and pestle.
I would also recommend the Eggplant Parmesan Flatbread ($9.60), except that I later learned this was the last week it would be on the menu. Seasons has a list of flatbread staples though, like the chicken garlic and steak and mushroom. The bread itself had a nice flavor and, in this case, was topped with melted mozzarella, Parmesan, basil, tomatoes and eggplant that had been sliced super thin, brushed with olive oil and roasted.
After dinner the waitress arrived with a flight of what they call their Mini Indulgences: gourmet desserts squeezed into extra large shot glasses: brilliant. Each was $2.75 and just big enough to satisfy your sweet tooth, but not so big you’re crashing on sugar, or you can go crazy and get a bunch. The Chocolate Peanut Butter Mousse was probably my favorite: light and creamy, sitting on top of a two-bite wedge of chocolate cake.
The next time I went, I was seated on the patio. A handful of tables ringed a modern gas fire pit topped with broken pieces of recycled glass.
This time I tried the Grilled Turkey Tenderloin Skewer ($16.50). Chunks of turkey were marinated in a honey Dijon mustard and skewered in between peppers, onions and roasted cremini mushrooms. It arrived on a bed of orzo. I probably wouldn’t get this again. The turkey was a little dry. And I didn’t think the barbecue dipping sauce fit the dish.
Since I didn’t load up on turkey, I figured I deserved two desserts. I tried the Belgian Chocolate Rocky Road, a thicker, richer chocolate mousse that had me licking the spoon, and the key lime pie.
I went back to Seasons 52 one other time, for lunch. The place was packed but I found one chair open at the bar, where you can order the full menu and watch TV, or well-heeled people.
I tried the Chicken Caesar Wrap ($9.95). The chicken was grilled and sliced thin, then wrapped in a soft pita bun with some lettuce and low-fat Caesar dressing. It arrived in its own little silver cot, which kept the sandwich together. Again, how do they keep the calories down? Even though I was full, I indulged in the pecan pie over vanilla mousse. You should too.
Orange County Register reviewers visit restaurants anonymously and pay their own way, for an objective and unbiased look at each establishment. After visits, reviewers phone the restaurant to arrange photos and get more details. Money, gifts or free meals are not accepted in exchange for reviews.
Contact the writer: 714-932-1705 or lbasheda@ocregister.com
